Taiwan
A clockwise train journey, starting in the north:
Taipei and nearby
One of my favorite cities, at least in winter. The National Palace Museum lived up to its reputation. Main problem for long walks: motor scooters.
Lushui-Wenshan hike, in Taroko Gorge, Hualien County
This point-to-point hike can be done from either trailhead. The police request that you get a permit before beginning the Lushui-Wenshan hike, and the police station is at the Wenshan trailhead.
Along the trail, I saw a troop of nine Formosan rock macaques. They resemble Japanese macaques.
Xiao Liuqiu Island, Pingtung County
‘Little Ryukyu’; also known as Lambay. Accessed by ferry, e.g. from Donggang port. Thanks to K.C. for recommending I visit.
I rented an undersized bicycle and rode counter-clockwise around the island in several hours. All the other tourists rode motor scooters. I would have, too, had I known how to ride one.
Tainan
The motor scooters were even worse than in Taipei, but otherwise I quite liked Tainan.
One day I entered a temple (not pictured) dedicated to Guanyin, a Buddhist goddess. Three worshipers noticed me. Buddhism is transnational, so I tried a prayer ritual as in Japan. One of the worshipers then handed me a packet of cookies. I thought they wanted me to make an offering to Guanyin, so I put the cookies on the altar. They actually meant the cookies as a gift for me. Then they gave me a second pack of cookies, off the altar itself - which struck me as sacrilegious - as well as a water bottle. (A Chinese speaker at my hostel told me it was temple-branded lucky water.) This happened on January 1, so it’s hard to guess whether they meant to celebrate a holiday from my culture, or wanted to reward my attempt at prayer.
See also one of my Kaohsiung photos in Victor Mair’s post on Language Log, as part of the Taiwanese storefront series.
